Sheffield Half for Climbers Against Cancer

This weekend Team CAC ran the Sheffield Half Marathon. Me included. You can see me gliding along (haha! hardly) below. I've never been a runner and, until 2 months ago when I signed up for the Sheffield Half, I'd only ever 'gone running' once since PE class at school. So to start running several times a week was a shock to the system. However, I've thoroughly enjoyed it and hope to continue.



Of course, the best thing out of all of this was that we raised over £1,000 for Cancer Research UK, on behalf of Climbers Against Cancer - something I'm very proud of. You can still donate here.

Massive thanks to Jenny for managing the team and to Leigh-Anne for the posters and sponsorship forms. And, most importantly, arranging pizza after the run.

In case you're interested, I managed the run in 2 hours and 10 seconds. Pretty proud of that too.

A weekend climbing in Northumberland

On the weekend just past I made a trip to Northumberland, to go bouldering with friends. It was the warmest weekend of the year. But being close to the coast, the county's crags were blustery, keeping the energy-sapping, hand-sweat inducing heat relatively at bay (at the exposed crags).

This was my first time climbing on the Northumberland stone and, I have to say, I loved it. There are holds, which is unusual for someone who spends most of their time scraping themselves over grit in the Peak District. The climbing is technical and physical in equal measure - grab a positive hold, pull hard. Body position is important to reach those holds, but when you do you tend to just yard. While it is relatively skin friendly (compared to grit), the nature of the climbing destroys the nerves in your finger tips. So after one day, my tips were pretty shot, sore to touch. Despite that, I ascended a handful of really good problems. 

I'm going to return to Northumberland not this weekend but the weekend after, when hopefully I'll try some harder problems (weather permitting), but for a first trip I was happy with the below tick list. What was most important was the fun factor - and there was plenty of that. BBQ, pints, fish & chips, whisky, coffee and climbing... that pretty much sums up the weekend. A good holiday.

Climbing Manta LH - tough problem off a pocket I couldn't get my fat fingers into

 Tick list

• Cave RH Problem (6B+), Bowden Doors
• Cave Central LH (7A), Bowden Doors
• Manta LH (7A - hard for the grade), Bowden Doors
• Transformer (6A+ - hard & reachy), Bowden Doors
• Transformer SS (7A), Bowden Doors
• Badfinger SS (6B), Kyloe in the woods
• Slapper (7A), Shaftoe
• 6C Traverse (can't remember or find the name), Shaftoe

I tried a few other problems as well - things to try again, maybe. I'll see what grabs my fancy in a week and a bit. Really hoping for good weather. I can't wait to climb in Northumberland again!

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Additional note: I read this blog from Dan Varian, of Beastmaker fame, shortly after returning from Northumberland. Bowden Doors is looking rather warn, weathered and eroded, so take care climbing there. Try not to use chalk to excess (something I think most of us are or have been guilty of) and be sure to clean up after yourselves, including removing as much chalk as possible from the rock.

The three Ws - Warm, Windy & Wet

Climbing this week has been sporadic and training has taken a real back step since returning from Switzerland. I've climbed indoors a handful of times since I got back to the UK - the motivation lacking for plastic pulling, I have to admit. But between the rain showers and heavy winds, I've managed to climb a few more boulder problems outside.

The biggest achievement for me was sending Jerry's Traverse (7B) at Cratcliffe - a problem I maybe should have done a long time ago, as it plays to my strengths. The technique for this one is sideways campussing - if you can call that a technique. The handholds are all pretty good, but they're on a slightly overhanging wall and the footholds are rubbish. Due to the overhanging nature of the wall and the crimps being encased within a crackline, leading from right to left, you have to be accurate and quick with your hand placements. No slapping and hoping you latch; you have to hit the holds in control. The only other difficulty is having the required power endurance to keep it going for the 10-12 moves required. I've never climbed a problem that so perfectly suits the finger board generation of today - an easy one to train for if you have access to a Beastmaker.

A small group of us had a quick trip out to Stanton Moor last weekend too - where it was warm, windy and wet. The three Ws all climbers love to hear. It's the first time I've visited this crag and, well, I wasn't massively impressed, I have to say. The problems are a bit all over the place and tricky to get to with pads on your back. However, when you do find them, there are a few gems among the trees. I tried one of them and failed miserably while figuring out beta that would work - Brad's Arete (6C+). However, just down the hill I did the much easier to figure out The 1980s Were The Days (7A). We then went back up top and made our way over to The King Stone, where I climbed The Plaque (6B) before eliminating the "craque" and climbing it again at 7A grade - in truth, not that much harder than the original.

The only other day I got out was Wednesday, just before the BMC Peak Area Meeting at The Maynard in Grindleford. I made a quick hour-long trip to Burbage South Edge to finish a problem I've tried in passing numerous times, Violence (apparently 7A). I'm sure everyone has a bogey problem and this one appears to be mine - it's nails! Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but the first move is desperate for me. And then every subsequent move feels droppable. I did it from one move in four times and then spent most of my hour just about getting my ass off the floor on the sit start - only latching the move once and then popping off. I did not send it and my skin was trashed from the crimp. Gutted! I'll have to go back. The battle is not over! I just need some skin first. 

Anyway, back out tomorrow. Maybe get on stuff I've tried before, maybe get on new stuff. Who knows! I love living in Sheffield... so much to choose from!

Post Switzerland power! A couple of days on the grit.

We returned from Switzerland to news of epically good conditions in the Peak District - snowballing had become the word of the week. When we left, water was still descending from the skies in its various forms: fog, snow, rain, sleet, hail - you name it, at some point over the past few weeks we've had it. So it was a welcome break to leave the British isles and head for sunnier climbs. You can read my Switzerland round up here.

Despite having spent 10 days abroad, bouldering in some of the best locations on the planet, I was slightly jealous to hear that conditions had been so good back home. Strange, huh? You're always jealous of the things you don't have. So after one full rest day on the Sunday (we got back at 2am), I went to work on Monday morning with the firm idea of heading out to Burbage North to get on Zaff Skoczylas (7C) at 5:30pm. When the clock rolled around to the required hour, I departed the office for the crag, only to find the starting holds on my problem to be dripping wet. The snow above had melted and it was streaming down the hill, through cracks and crevasses, and had seeped all over the bottom section. Gutted. To add injury to insult, I promptly slipped over in the wet and crunched my knees. Thankfully, I managed to walk it off on the way back towards Burbage Bridge.

On the way, I stopped off at The Terrace (7C), which I climbed at the end of last year. A write up and video can be found here. I was feeling stronger than last year, so I thought I'd test myself and see if it felt any easier. I pulled on from the sit position easily, to my surprise, as this had felt rather desperate last year, and promptly didn't throw for the dish very hard, still hitting it before plopping back down on my arse when it didn't latch. Three or four tries later (having also practised the end moves once), I caught the dish and climbed to the finishing lip before dropping off - the mantle being around 3+ in grade and the back of the boulder being shrouded in snow and soggy ground, I thought I'd leave it. Happy with that, I continued the walk back to Burbage Bridge.

Twitter told me a friend was heading out to try the classic West Side Story (7B+) so, having glimpsed them across the gorge, I walked over to try the problem with them. I like this problem (to look at) and I'd love to climb it, but I feel closer to climbing an 8C fridge hugger (I've never tried one - I say that as an exaggeration to get my point across) than I do to that line. I've never tried WSS in earnest because I've never got on with the moves - balance and revolving around a tiny, tiny crimp. I'm hopeful that one day, when trying it in passing as I do, it will just fall into place and I'll glide to the top like you're supposed to. We'll see. Anyway, after a few stifled efforts, I made no progress whatsoever and my friend split his left finger tip pretty badly. Onwards!

For a "consolation prize" we went around the corner to try Jason's Mono Problem - something I must have walked past a hundred times but never realised it was an actual boulder problem. It's one or two moves (depending how you start it - it makes no difference either way) and you jump for a huge jug by way of a shallow, sharp mono that you hardly pull on. Having never heard of or considered the problem before, I had no idea of grade and didn't ask. The first try I overshot it, poking the wall above pretty hard - which hurt like hell on cold fingers. The second try I did it and thought it must be 6A/+. The guide actually grades it 7A. The softest 7A I think I've ever done. It must be ideally suited to the tall.

Anyway, it was really, really cold, so it was time to depart - the sun quickly descending. But I decided to stop off at Mermaid (7A) at Burbage Bridge on the way back to the car, which I promptly retro-flashed, easily, giving me pause for thought on Jason's Mono Problem... maybe it was the conditions or maybe I was just feeling really strong after Switzerland, but everything was feeling relatively easy (except WSS, of course). This is probably the first time this has ever happened in my climbing career. I hope it's not the last!

So, with that little confidence boost, I thought I'd give Rocket Man (7B+), just around the corner from Mermaid, a quick blast to test the power. I tried this once or twice before, a long time ago, but it always felt incredibly desperate. Pulling off the floor was OK, but dynoing from two poor footholds and two semi-decent handholds was out of the question. I hit the lip of the sloping top out first try on Monday, to my immense surprise. I had a lot more in the tank, as the first throw was a bit of a tester. A couple more goes and I was getting further and further into the meat of the sloping topout before I latched it on my fourth or fifth try. I nearly dropped it at one point, when I was trying to shift my hand into a decent mantling position, but a little wiggling later and I was on the top, freezing my ass off in the wind.

Just to finish an excellent couple of hours bouldering after work, I did the superb 6C arete right of Mermaid - it needs a name people! - and then went home for a much deserved dinner.

The following day (Tuesday) I went out to Rivelin for spotting duties and managed to climb Beak No Weevil (7A+), which I had also tried before and deemed desperate for the grade. It still felt desperate but I managed to finish it. I also went out to Curbar last night (Wednesday) but after warming up on the Trackside boulder I found that my left arm had had enough and was calling time. Both it and I needed rest, so that's what I'm doing. Looks like rain for the foreseeable future, and then most are heralding the start of limestone season - the temperatures set to rise to typical spring levels before summer rolls in. Maybe I'll try some limestone climbing this year... hmm... there's a thought.

My first bouldering trip to Switzerland

A typical view in Chironico.

Switzerland... what an amazing place to go rock climbing. We only experienced a very small part of it over the week we were there, but the rock was immaculate, bullet proof granite that required a range of amazing movement to summit. The scenery is absolutely stunning, with snow capped mountains all around, forests strewn with boulders of all shapes, sizes, angles and features, and small villages dotted throughout the countryside.

When it comes to the climbing, finger strength is a must. It is very physical. So don't go there expecting to boost your grade - best just to go to experience the stone and see what happens. We've all heard that Swiss grades are inflated but that wasn't what I encountered. I thought the problems were hard. It was hard in the same way that any new area you go climbing in is hard if you haven't climbed on that kind of stone before. You have to get used to pulling on the holds, finding the body positions and learning the movement. If you're looking for problems to try I've included my tick list below and few problems I tried and would like to go back for.

Let's go climbing!

First, however, just a quick note on the particulars of our trip - in case any of you are planning your own and looking for ideas and tips. 

Firstly, how to get there... We chose to drive due to cost - it worked out cheaper to get a ferry and take my car rather than fly and then hire a car. There's the obvious benefit of having more space for pads and other gear, but the hassle of hours on end traveling. On the way there we drove to Fontainebleau to spend a day on the famous sandstone before traveling through to Switzerland. It was a four hour drive from Dunkirk to Font followed by a six hour trip to Claro (near Chironico) the following day. Our return journey was a straight nine hour drive from Claro to Dunkirk. I didn't mind the drive but this is down to personal preference and budget.

Secondly, where to stay... In Fontainebleau, if you're looking to camp, I recommend staying at Camping Les Pres. It is cheap, cheerful and has everything you'll need. When in Switzerland, we stayed in Claro due to its proximity to Cresciano and Chironico - plus friends recommended the particular cottage we stayed in. I would give you a link to their website but, unfortunately, I can't find one. Hopefully I'll update this for you soon. But you're looking at around 500 Swiss francs for a four person cottage for a week.

Resting at the cottage on a warm, sunny afternoon in Claro, Switzerland

Right... I think that's all I want to say on that. Now, to the climbing. Below is a comprehensive list of everything I climbed... all really good problems or I wouldn't have climbed them. If you've tried, climbed or plan on trying and climbing, let me know what you think of these.

Tick list

Day one (Friday): Fontainebleau, Rocher Aux Sabot

We stopped off here to break the trip to Switzerland up. We only had around three hours to climb and it was warm and sunny when we arrived - but not to be put off we got straight to business.

• C'Est Assis, Mais C'est Tasse (7A+)
• Jeux De Toit (7A) - second go
• Graviton (7A) - first try, having tried it last year
• Bioethique (7A) - flash

Day two (Saturday): Traveling from Fontainebleau to Switzerland

Day three (Sunday): Switzerland, Nivo Bassa

The first day on Swiss stone.

• Hopper (6C+) - second go
• Swinger Club (7A+) - fourth go
• Tried Autopilot (7A+) but ran out of time
• Frogat Traverse (6C+/7A) - flash

Day four (Monday): Deliverance

Skin was lacking, muscles were sore, so we took it easy and had a "mileage day" - lots of easier problems. It was great fun.

• La Baroness (6A)
• Blocco 7a Problem 4 (6A)
• Blocco 14 Problem 1 (5+)
• Satanik (6A)
• Second Chance (6A)
• Belzebu (6A+)
• Matusalem (6C+)
• Galileo Bis (6A)
• Followed by total failure on Mea Culpa (6A+)

Day five (Tuesday): Nivo Bassa & Nivo Alta

Struggled with warm, sunny weather and skin still sore, I got back on some tougher problems...

• Ron Fon (6A+) - flash
• Kiss Me (7C) - worked it all but couldn't quite manage the first move, so no send
• Kleine Lexicon (6B+)
• Quantic Bloc + (7A) - a long traverse that took me an age to work out and then ran out of steam four or five times on the last move - I was totally worked but no send
• Nivo Alta Bloc 3 Problem 2 (6A+) - flash

Day six (Wednesday): La Soucoupe, Rah Plats Plats, Serre Moi Fort and Centrale

A full on day - sent and tried loads of stuff in hot temperatures.

• Vitruvian Man (formerly 7C but now chipped, which I was unaware of at the time* - maybe 7A?) - fourth go. I've included a photo below.

Reaching for what I think is the chipped hold on Vitruvian Man

• Titan (6C) - second go
• Blocco 3b Problem 5 (6B)
• Blocco 3b Problem 8 (6A+) - flash
• Le Vent Nous Portera (8A) - tried the moves for ten minutes or so but no send; I just wanted to see if it was something for the future - it is!
• Kanizsa (6C) - second go
• Salsa Dura (7A) - first go (start moves same as Kanizsa)
• Satiricon (6A+) - flash

Day seven (Thursday): Boogalagga & Paese

It was raining when we awoke so we decided to make a trip to the chocolate factory in Lugano. Firstly, the trip isn't worth making so I wouldn't bother. We were there maybe 20-30 minutes before returning to Chironico and going for a walk around the forest. Despite the rain, I tried a couple of things...

• Globetrotter (7A) - it felt bunched and not great, so no send
• Komilator (8A) - tried the moves but the end was wet so no send

Day eight (Friday): Doctor Med & Deliverance

The last climbing day of the trip before the long drive home. It had been raining lower in the valley and in Chironico it was warm and humid... but the rock was dry!

• Doctor Med Dent (7B+) - took a few goes due to slippy hands
• Offene Ture (6B+)
• Carpe Diem (6B+/6C) - the first move on this was the hardest single move I did all trip... deserves at least 7A IMO
• Cubitus (6B) - there was two variations and the fridge hugging one deserves at least 6B+ IMO
• Seppi's Boulder (7A) - total failure on a boulder that is totally my cup of tea... it was time to draw the curtains on the trip.

And that was that, as they say. The end of a week long climbing trip - loads of great problems climbed and an amazing time had. All I can say is, if you're a keen boulderer you must go to Switzerland to climb on those amazing stones.

*Having climbed Vitruvian Man in only a handful of tries, I had my doubts on the grade, which prompted me to research it a little when I got back to the UK. All I seem to find are random comments or rumours that it was chipped so if anyone can confirm I would appreciate it.

A quick update on the Rock Climbing Life

A quick update on the Rock Climbing Life, with so much going off at the moment. 

As anyone living in the Peak District already knows, we've had some atrocious weather over the past week or two. Ten foot high snow drifts, howling wind, freezing temperatures. People have been out skiing for crying out loud! Climbing outside has gone out of the window, but this gave me time to train ahead of my first trip to Switzerland. We're leaving tonight, breaking up the journey with a stop off in Fontainebleau, an afternoon's climb and a campsite kip in the very cheap but good Camping Les Pres (don't be put off by the website - I've stayed there numerous times and it's great). Then, the following day (Saturday), we'll be making the jaunt over to Chironico / Cresciano for eight hopefully dry days. To say I'm excited would be an understatement.

I've been climbing well of late, getting stronger and stronger, and my recent send of The Keel has helped boost my confidence. I'm hoping for good things in Switzerland - not to put too much pressure on myself - so I'll let you know how it goes when I get back.

On another note, as I'm sure most of you will be aware, I've taken up the role of Peak District Area Reporter for the very popular ukclimbing.com. You can read my first report (which has had an incredible 8,000 reads as I write this) here. I've already started pulling some news together for the next one and I hope to finish this when I get back. If anyone knows anything kicking off in the Peak - new routes and problems, rare repeats, young'uns or old'uns sending, access issues, anything at all really - then get in touch!. Comment below and leave your email. Alternatively, for those Twitter inclined, you'll find a link to my profile on the left. Give me an @ mention and I'll get back to you ASAP.

The only other thing to do is share a few great photos that weren't used on the UKC article. It would be a shame to waste them!

This was used on UKC but I think it's an ace shot - Katy Whittaker on the blank wall of Toy Boy (E7 7A) - Credit / Copyright Pirie Forrest

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Careless Torque (8A) - Credit / Copyright Pirie Forrest

Mina on Jason's Roof (8A) - Credit / Copyright David Mason

A few photos from The Roaches

A few weeks ago now, we had a really good day out at The Roaches. We got a good group together (it was my girlfriend and her twin sister's birthday) and I had a nice little tick list from the day:

• The Greener Traverse (6B+ IMO) 
• Coopers Traverse (6B)
• Calcutta Traverse (6A)
• Too Drunk (7A)
• Not Drunk Enough (6C)
• Sleeping with the Flowers (7A)
• Limbless Limbo Dancer (6C+/7A)

Anyway, the only reason I bring this up now is because I wanted to share a few great photos from the weekend. The first of these, the fantastic group shot, is from Michelle Forrest. And the sublime scenic shots, as well as the two action photos, are from Mike Etchells. Click on them for larger versions.

The group at The Roaches. Credit Michelle Forrest

The sublime Roaches upper tier view. Credit Mike Etchells

Going for a multi-pitch on The Sloth in the snow. Credit Mike Etchells

Leigh-Anne on The Greener Traverse. Credit Mike Etchells

Me on Too Drunk. Credit Mike Etchells

The hut at The Roaches. Credit Mike Etchells