Wednesday, 6 July 2011

Info overload on rock climbing training.

There are so many training articles and blogs out there relating to rock climbing it's difficult to know what advice to follow. 


I've read magazine articles that say one good training session or a full and intense day out at the crag would necessitate anywhere from two days to a week's worth of rest, to recover properly and allow your body to build back up, therefore becoming stronger. But then I've read interviews online with the world's best climbers who seemingly go out climbing every day, maybe with an odd day off here and there. 


Then there's the length of your training session, how intense it should be and what you should incorporate into it. What should you eat before and after sessions, what is the best source of energy, do protein supplements help, etc, etc, etc. There's heaps of advice with regards to diet but then you read about one of the world's strongest boulderers of their time, Malcolm Smith, living off broccoli so he was light enough for his projects (not that I would ever advocate that, but I wanted to put my point into context).


My advice when it comes to training, not that I'm an expert, would be, yes, read those articles and blogs and take onboard what they're saying. They are usually written by professionals and they know what they're talking about. But remember the most important person to listen to is yourself. Listen to what your body is telling you, rest when you need to, have intense training sessions and easy training sessions when necessary, eat healthy food and, if you climb as much as I do, lots of it. One thing that did help me, and I can definitely advocate this, is to eat immediately after finishing your training session. That means, within the first five minutes of completion, have a banana or something. And drink lots of water.


The way to improve is to push your limits. But equally important is knowing when to push and when to rest.